DIY GAL

Reverse Osmosis Maintenance: H2RO

2010-06-26T10:17:00.001-07:00

I have had a reverse osmosis system installed in my kitchen since 1995. I love the benefits of tasty drinking water right out of a special tap. These systems require occasional maintenance. This system just required some maintenance so this post covers: replacing the tank, the Filmtec membrane and the Omnipure filter. I had replaced the other two filters about a month ago.

The Location of the 3-Gallon Tank
I chose to store the large tank in the left corner cabinet, rather than directly under the sink in the double doors to free up space needed under the sink.

The Original Water Storage Tank:
The bladder in the middle of the tank had developed a hole and the air charge had apparently escaped, according to a family member who is in the RO business. This made it nearly impossible to get a glass of water, let alone a pitcher of water. The prognosis? This tank needed replacing. I could tell by lifting it. It should have been light. It was full of water even though the RO faucet appeared to be empty.

(Note: The leak was only on the inside of the tank. There was no exterior leak so no damage to the cabinet etc.)

The Replacement Water Storage Tank:
Placed in the same location as the previous tank. I only had to disconnect the plastic nut and tubing and reconnect it to the new one. Easy! I left that other knob alone on the lower portion of the tank. (Once I lifted the tank into this pull-out drawer, I was able to lift it over the edge and into the back corner of the cabinet. The bright blue lever on the top is the "tank shut-off."

The Location of the Filters and Membranes:
Here is a view of my kitchen cabinets. The filters and membranes are stored in the narrow cabinet to the right of the sink and dishwasher, rather than directly under the sink in the double doors. This freed up space needed under the sink.

The Filters and R.O. Membranes:

In addition to the tank, here's two additional items that I replaced. The smaller peach and light blue filter on top is labeled "OmniPure K2333". It notes for "chlorine taste and odor reduction". Note the arrows pointing to the left for the direction of the flow. Pay attention to that arrow when installing.

The other bright blue item is a "Filmtec membrane", model number TW30-1812-36 made by Dow. "The membrane consists of several thin layers or sheets of film that are bonded together and rolled in a spiral configuration around a plastic tube." (according to my RO manual)

According to Dow's website:

FILMTEC™ elements from Dow feature a spiral wound design and are based on the FT30 thin-film composite polyamide membrane, which has long been the industry standard for RO performance. The FILMTEC FT30 membrane consists of three layers: an ultra-thin polyamide barrier layer, a microporous polysulfone interlayer, and a high-strength polyester support web. The FT30 membrane has been continuously updated and refined to provide higher rejection, improved membrane flux, and low fouling performance. Today's FT30 membrane is uniquely uniform in performance and quality, without the taped or glued defects that can cause other membranes to fail.

Sort of a complicated mess of tubing that also runs to the ice maker on the opposite side of the small kitchen. The gray tubing on top goes to the drain in this instance. It has a "Waste Flow Capillary Tube" installed inside of it. This "looks like a piece of clear nylon fishing line held by a piece of red rubber stuck in a plastic insert. The H2RO could not operate without it, since it allows the contaminants to be washed off the surface of the membrane as a slow but steady rate."

Bird's Eye View:
I replaced the small orange and blue Omnipure Carbon Post Filter. The long white tubular container was a bit challenging to open. That is where the new Filmtec membrane goes. (The white cylinder container has a blue "KE" on it in this photo.)

I ended up using the side of a wrench to slip into that embossed section on the cap of the white cylinder. Be sure to not lose the black rubber ring inside. You will reuse it again when you replace the Filmtec membrane and tighten it back up.

I left this portion of the unit out of the cabinet, on the towel for 24 hours to check for leaks. Once I was certain there was nothing dripping, etc. I felt OK to put it back in the cabinet out of sight.

Note: I had also replaced the two filters that go inside the wide blue vertical cylinders. They both measure 4-1/2" x 9-7/8" and fit large heavy duty housings. They are labeled "S" sediment.

The first one, POS5, is for "Fine Rust & Sediment - 5 microns."
The second one, POW30, is for "Medium Filtration Rust & Sediment - 30 microns."

Insulating Windows With Fabric

2010-06-05T09:04:00.001-07:00

As part of my quest for getting my home-office as cool as possible for summer I determined that much of the heat gain was coming from my window.

I went to JoAnn's Etc. and discovered a special energy efficient fabric called Warm Window, (which is available in white or ivory). It's available in 60" or 45" widths and is sold by the yard for approximately $22-$29/yard.

According to JoAnn's website: "The Warm White Window fabric consists of four layers of different fabric quilted together in 4"-wide lengthwise channels. It is designed to reduce the flow of energy through your window glass. The layers are lined with fabric protector; Made with high density needled holo fibers; Produce a reflective polyethylene moisture vapor barrier; Have metallized mylar with air-trapping fibers."

I say: "Neat-o!"

Here's a close-up of the layers. It keeps out street noise and is room darkening as well.

Note: I do not have a sewing machine so I hand-stitched this. The person who cut the fabric did not give me much extra and the cuts were not square with the stitches. I used a triangle to get the side hems perpendicular with the rows of horizontal stitching so I rectified her sloppy cutting.

I bought a round spring tension rod (28" - 48")from Target for just $2.99, and stitched a pocket to slide that in.
I then installed it BEHIND my current Hunter Douglas Duette Honeycomb Shades so I have double insulation on this window.

On Hunter Douglas's website regarding energy efficiency they offer a download brochure entitled "We make Green Beautiful". Regarding the Honeycomb Duette that I currently have in the office they state:

"Air contained within the honeycomb cells proved to be an effective insulator, keeping heat inside in winter and keeping it out in summer."

Apparently their newer edition Duette called the "Duette Architella" claims better energy efficiency.

Here are three views of the Warm Window fabric installed behind the Honeycomb Duette. On the left is just the Honeycomb Duette Shade. The middle shows the Warm Window shade installed behind the Honeycomb Duette Shade, with the shade half open. On the right shows the Duette closed over the Warm Window shade. Hopefully this will give me maximum insulation for this room!

Here's what my finished window looks like in my 35" x 59" window:

Adding Attic Insulation

2010-06-05T08:25:00.000-07:00

The room in my house that I use for my home-office faces west. Here in Phoenix, it's not unusual for us to have summer temperatures ranging from 100* to 115*. Sometimes the mercury even soars beyond that! This room, where I spend nearly all my time, really heats up.

I have computer equipment that kicks off some heat as well, making this room not so comfortable. I've configured my computer equipment in such a way that my scanner and printer are on a separate power plug so they can all be turned off when not in use, minimizing power usage.

GOAL: To add more insulation above this home-office so that room is cooler in the summer.

I had blown-in insulation, but I wanted to add extra insulation over this room. On one of the last remaining good weather days of the season (still in the cool 70's), I ventured up there with mask to protect my lungs and my oldest work clothes (long sleeves and pants). I would've worn googles, however I wear glasses so it was too much around my face.

First task was to measure the rafters. Mine were 24" apart. As you can see there was already "blown in" insulation. My house is 15 years old. It definitely would have been easier to just call a company who does this and they could have added more blown-in insulation to what was there already. However I wanted to take care of it myself and for as little money as possible.

Also you'll notice there are lots of wires and plumbing etc. crossing over the rafters. I went in with a piece of sturdy cardboard and scooped all the existing insulation from one rafter section to the next, giving me room to install the pink insulation as a foundation.

You can see the extra blown-in insulation piled up temporarily on the neighboring rafter section.

From Lowe's I purchased Owens Corning Pink Fiberglass Insulation R-30 (one package was approximately $68.) Specifically I purchased: R-30 Kraft-faced Insulated Batt. Batts are 48 inches long, 24 inches wide, and 9½ inches thick. Square feet: 88.00.

On their website they describe it as follows:

"Homeowners prefer Owens Corning PINK FIBERGLAS® Insulation 7 to 1 because it maintains insulating power over time. Since fiber glass does not absorb moisture, PINK insulation will not hold water, preventing permanent loss of R-value. When properly installed, PINK FIBERGLAS® Insulation will not settle or deteriorate to maintain insulating value. The insulating materials in PINK FIBERGLAS® Insulation are also noncombustible."

I used a sturdy board to kneel on when threading the roll insulation in between the rafters and under all the wiring. I would not recommend this task if you are not a fit person. It took some abdomen strength and upper body strength and good balance to install this. And remember that if you misstep you can actually fall through the ceiling. Fortunately I did not have any accidents, however I was quite sore after this and my knees were bruised and skinned a bit from balancing on that board.

Note: As a safety precaution if you are working up there alone, be sure to bring a charged cell phone and put it in your pocket. If you were to get stuck or in an accident in the attic and needed help, that phone may really come in handy.

Here you will notice that there is a brace and the electric box the lighting fixture, which, in this case, is a ceiling fan. The instructions on the pink insulation advise keeping the insulation away from this a few inches so it does not heat up. I cut around it and added blown-in insulation in that spot instead.

Smoke Detector Replacement

2009-11-01T13:24:00.000-08:00

The smoke detectors in my home started randomly going off after 14 years of being installed -- they had never been replaced. This sent me researching all the different kinds of smoke detectors and educating myself on what to look for, which model to purchase. This post is to share that information with you.

Coincidentally during the time I was working on this project, there was a story on the local news regarding false alarms. Here in Phoenix we had a chilly fall day and evidently a lot of people turned on their furnaces, which kicked some dust around. The firefighter spokesperson said that the smoke detectors cannot decipher smoke from dust -- they only sense particulates.

TIP: This firefighter reminded viewers to dust your smoke regularly with canned air.

Here are the original smoke detectors that I had in my house -- there were two in a 1265 sq ft single-story home. They are not battery-powered but instead wired -- although not wired into an alarm system. This is a Firex Model G-6 120 V AC Direct Wire Ionization Smoke Alarm. (Maple Chase Company). Firex and Kidde are apparently the same company.

Once I uninstalled this smoke detector, and removed the plastic mounting bracket, here is what it looked like. Notice how the special plastic 3-prong plug is designed to fit into the back of the smoke detector.

One of the most helpful resources I found online was FireSafety.gov for Citizens There they offer the following guide to selecting the smoke alarms to protect you and your family:

Because both ionization and photoelectric smoke alarms are better at detecting distinctly different yet potentially fatal fires, and because homeowners cannot predict what type of fire might start in a home, use these guidelines to help best protect your family:

BEST

IF YOU DON'T HAVE A SMOKE ALARM INSTALLED IN YOUR HOME, GET ONE AND INSTALL IT.
Install a working smoke alarm on every level of the home, outside sleeping areas, and inside bedrooms.
Install both ionization and photoelectric type smoke alarms.
Install interconnected smoke alarms.
Install smoke alarms using house wiring with battery back-up.

BETTER

IF YOU DON'T HAVE A SMOKE ALARM INSTALLED IN YOUR HOME, GET ONE AND INSTALL IT.
Install more than one smoke alarm.
Install interconnected smoke alarms.
Install smoke alarms with sealed 10 year batteries.

GOOD

* IF YOU DON'T HAVE A SMOKE ALARM INSTALLED IN YOUR HOME, GET ONE AND INSTALL IT.

After shopping both Lowe's and Home Depot and studying their smoke detectors, I selected this Firex/Kidde Model PE120 - 120V AC Photoelectric Smoke Alarm. Part# 21006371:

FRONT VIEW:

BACK VIEW:

Installation was fairly easy. As always when working with electricity, turn off the breaker box at the circuit breaker before you begin.

Once the mounting brace was removed, this was the wiring I was working with:

In this picture you can see that I have detatched the old wiring and attached the new wiring, making sure wire nuts are tightened so wires don't come loose. Then I gently packed the wires into the metal box so the mounting bracket could be attached.

Here was the new mounting bracket that came with the new Kidde model PE120:

Here the wires have been threaded through the mounting bracket. Then the mounting bracket was fastened tight with screws:

Here you can see the wires are connected and the plug is snapped into place. Just needs to be twisted into the grooves on the mounting bracket to be completely installed:

And here is the final product installed. This model is an improvement from the original model because it also has a 9-volt battery back-up in the event of a power outage. This way I am protected in either scenario.

A green light should illuminate on this model. After removing the protective battery tab, installation is complete. Lastly test the installation by pressing the test button.

Headphones for Skype on your ProMac (OSX)

2009-10-07T08:10:00.000-07:00

If I had a dollar for every time someone said to me "Oh we could have a Skype meeting!" or "Do you have Skype?" I would be sipping mai tais on a beach in Bora Bora right now. Skype? What's all the stink about Skype? Well, I guess it was meant to be, because I have discovered it truly is a cool convenience for bridging distance and saving time not having to physically meet. And if that were not enough Oprah uses it all the time, and I just saw it on "Who Wants to be a Millionaire" too! So there must be something to this!

So this is a review of headphones, rather than of Skype itself. I do not have a webcam so to use Skype I need a headset with microphone. I have now purchased my THIRD headset in search of the right pair. Here in Phoenix, Arizona I've shopped at BestBuy, Target and Fry's Electronics.

Fry's had a mind-blowing selection -- everything from sound-canceling headphones to simple earbuds. My first trip in there I was completely overwhelmed and left the store having not bought a thing. Its not that there were not salespeople available, I just had a hard time deciding. They have price ranges from oh, like $10 to over $50.

HEADSET #1: I initially bought the iHome LifeTalks Basic Headset, model IH-H400AB, which had an analog (not USB) connection. I paid $19.99 at Fry's Electronics for this headset.

According to the iHome website...

Features:
- high quality audio
- adjustable noise canceling microphone
- cushioned ear cups

Technical Specs:
- frequency response: 100 - 20000 Hz
- sensitivity: 99db +/- 3db
- cord length: 6.6 ft. (2m)
The problem with these was that there was only an analog connection and nowhere in their instructions did they explain that you have to adjust your Mac system preferences, so I was confused as to how to get the sound to work. I called the iHome customer support line and got a lovely, polite woman in India, who explained to me that iHome does not support the Mac! Oh sure, they only profit from the hip name modeled after the Mac (i.e. iPod, iMac, iHome). How do you say in Indian "Sheesh!"?

BTW, the only place there is an Analog Audio Line-in Port and an Analog Audio Line-out Port on my MacPro are on the back of the computer, which is not the most convenient for plugging in headphones. It shortens one's "leash." And besides a USB connection promises a better quality sound. So these were promptly returned to Fry's Electronics and I decided I must need to shell out double the money to get what I really needed.

HEADSET #2: I traded in that headset for the upgraded iHome LifeTalks Foldable USB Headset, model IH-H413UN, which had a USB adapter. I paid $39.99 at Fry's Electronics for this headset.

According to the iHome website...

Features:
- USB digital & analog audio
- adjustable noise canceling microphone
- padded ear cups & headband
- foldable Technical Specs: frequency response: 20 - 20000 Hz sensitivity: 99db +/- 5db cord length: 6.6 ft. (2m)The LifeWorks website for this model states: "The included adapter gives you an option for connecting the headset through you computer's USB port or 3.5mm headphone or microphone jacks."

The way this product is designed is, in theory, to be able to use both analog connection and USB connection. Should be versatile, right? The problem: The analog jacks fit into a chubby USB adapter, which does not fit snugly into the USB port on the front of my MacPro tower and wiggles as I move. So when I am on a Skype conference call someone says "Do we know who is causing the interference?" Yup, that would be my computer and my brand new $40 iHome (a.k.a. Does-Not-Support-The-Mac") headset. Back to Fry's Electronics it goes!

This product is nothing but poor design, and no surprise, made in China. No thinking about an actual Mac computer or how they are designed. No thought on functionality. Here is a picture the unnecessarily chubby USB port. Because of its fat design there is not room to slide the USB into the keyboard port, thus eliminating one possible option for connection. Just plain DUMB.

AND THE WINNER IS... HEADSET #3
Logitech USB Headset Casque USB H330. I paid $29.99 at Target for this headset. It is also available at BestBuy and I believe Fry's Electronics as well.According to the Logitech website...

Features:
- USB connectivity for Mac® or PC
- Noise-canceling microphone
- Adjustable, lightweight headband
- Stereo sound
- Rotating, adjustable boom
- Ideal for Internet calls

Their site says "Stereo sound in seconds -- a plug-and-play USB headset with a noise-canceling mic for your internet calls, music and movies." What more could a DIY gal ask for?

BTW, here is what your Mac OSX settings should be for this product. Just go to System Preferences > Sound > Output and System Preferences > Sound > Input. Then test the sound on Skype to be sure your settings are correct and you are good to go! Happy Skyping!

And be sure to set your Skype preferences too:

How To: Drain a Water Heater (electric)

2009-09-12T15:11:00.000-07:00

Want to have your water heater last longer? Regular preventative maintenance will help ensure this. I recommend draining it two times per year.

TIP: Put a maintenance reminder in your electronic calendar.

Before you drain your water heater, its a good idea to turn off the electricity to it at the breaker box.

The example shown here is a Whirlpool 50-gallon electric water heater purchased in 2003. I have set up a regular schedule of draining it two times per year. It is located in my garage so I am able to drain it with the hose directly to the street by extending the hose through the garage and down the driveway.
Next you will need a hose to drain the tank. I simply detach my garden hose and use that temporarily for this task. You will be connecting the hose at the bottom of the tank as shown here. I would recommend having some old towels or rags available to slip under this area. Once you have a secure connection, take a screwdriver and insert it in the valve area (not sure of the name here) slowly open it up. You will discover quickly if your connection with the hose is tight enough. If there are no significant leaks, just let the water run.

Check the other end of the hose to see if water is coming out. On this particular maintenance I had rusty colored water coming out and then clear water. Sometimes I can actually see hard water deposits spitting out of the hose at the end. I let the water run until its clear for a while. When you feel satisfied that all sediment has been removed, go back to the water tank and tighten up that screw again. Now its safe to detach the hose.

Note: I did not touch the on-off valve at the top of the water heater. Here is a photo of what the top of this water heater looks like. The narrow gray tube is connected to a timer which is cropped out of this photo. The copper pipes to the water in and water out, have insulation foam around them.

That's it! Remember to turn the breaker back on for the water heater when the job is done. Good luck and may have you have many worry-free years from your water heater!

How to: Replace Bathroom Valves and Hoses

2009-09-03T14:15:00.000-07:00

Here are a few "before" picture of the hoses and valves I had under my bathroom sink. I discovered a leak under one of the two sinks in my master bathroom, so obviously maintenance was needed. In addition, I inspected the other sink and cabinet area, I realized the valves on this sink are just a flood waiting to happen. Time to replace!

Look at this bad boy! Dang! Definitely time to replace!

PREPARATION: Turn off main water source before working. Remove all items under the sink area so you have room to work. Grab some old towels, rags, etc. It is easiest to remove the old valve and install the new one with TWO wrenches or clamping pliers. Here are the two I used. You may find that the valve that needs replacing is challenging to remove especially if it has hard water deposits, rust, etc. If so, you may need WD-40 or some similar spray to loosen the connection.

On the left is the old valve that had started dripping recently. On the right is the new replacement valve to be installed.

Here is a close-up view of one of the valves that I purchased from Lowe's to replace the leaky valves. Its a 5/8" Inlet O.D. and 3/8" Outlet O.D. ($5.58 each):

Here is a view of the old hose that came with the faucet (gray plastic) and the 12" replacement braided hose, which will last much longer and prevent future leaks. This new braided hose was purchased at Lowe's also. ($3.78 each).

TIP: Be sure and install this braided hose to your valve before you have to go under the sink. You will have greater freedom to tighten it when not restricted to the tight quarters under the sink. Be sure to wrap some white plumbing tape around the connection grooves on the valve.

On the left is the new valve connected to the 12" braided hose. On the right is the old valve and gray plastic tubing that came with the faucet that was installed a few years ago.

Next step -- as shown below -- is to fasten the valves (with braided hoses already attached) to the copper pipes from the wall with the fittings.

Here is where the two locking wrenches may come in handy. You will want to fasten one to the brand new valve and one to the connector probably already on your copper pipe from the wall. You will want to keep the braided hose pointing down and just tighten up that connection by fastening the connector nut on the copper pipe.

Next connect the 5/8" end of the braided hose to the copper pipe that connects to the faucet.

And the final test... turn the main water back on and check for dry or wet connections. Adjust as needed. I let it sit overnight and check again the next day just to be sure there is no minor leak.

Finally, here is a tip for a record of your home maintenance.

TIP: Find a piece of plastic and trim it out to about 2-3" square. I used a scrap from a bag of Morton's salt for my water softener. Write on it with a Sharpie marker and note what has been replaced and when. Loosely fasten it with a plastic zip-tie. It'll be waterproof and help jog your memory as to when this repair was last done.

Total cost of repair per sink, for valves and hoses: approximately $20.

Ceiling Fan Installation 101

2009-05-21T15:11:00.000-07:00

Being the DIY gal that I am, when a friend offered a barely-used ceiling fan, how could I resist attempting to install it myself? This has turned out to be a bigger challenge than I had anticipated.

The Existing Light Fixture
For starters, here is the basic light fixture I had before removing it for this new install. It came with the house and is in a spare bedroom I use for a home-office.

The Existing Brace
This is what the existing "brace" looked like in my attic above this ceiling. It did not look sturdy enough to bear the weight of an approximately 25-30 lb. fan and light fixture. Notice this hole cut out for the fixture is not centered between the joists, rather it is centered in the room.

Once the previous light fixture and the metal box for electrical connection was removed -- NOTE: BE SURE TO TURN OFF ELECTRICITY AT BREAKER BOX BEFORE WORKING ON THIS -- I was left with a cut-out hole in my ceiling. Next step was to remove the existing brace and replace it with this much sturdier brace I purchased from Home Depot: Model #01525 Saf-T-Bar from Westinghouse

Oops! Removing the old brace can be hazardous to your ceiling!
That proved to be a bit more challenging. I had not realized giant staple-like pieces of hardware were hammered into the joists. I used a screwdriver as a chisel and a hammer to pry the old brace from the joists. The first one came out nicely. When I attempted the second one, I still did not realize there were those giant staples because the lighting was not good up in the attic. I accidentally chiseled a bit too far and punctured the ceiling. This is what it looked like.

I was able to repair the puncture hole by applying joint compound (or spackle) from the ceiling side, due to the nature of this puncture. Then I returned to the room and dabbed additional on the ceiling side of the hole. I was able to burnish up the drywall so it was virtually invisible. I think it turned out pretty good! A little touch-up paint and I doubt anyone would notice.

The New Brace: Saf-T-Bar
Next I positioned the new Westinghouse Saf-T-Bar brace in place up in the attic and trimmed a small bit of drywall from the ceiling to allow this metal octagon electrical box to peek through the existing round hole.

I ended up using a simple screwdriver to attach the brace plates to the joists. I found the screwdriver gave me better control. I tried using a cordless drill, which I had borrowed from a friend, but found it to be too clunky to maneuver under the stapled wiring that criss-crossed through the attic. I was only able to get four screws in the plates... would have preferred four per plate for a total of eight screws. I ran into knots in the wood and just awkward positioning of the electrical box to the joist.

Attaching this brace was the worst part of the entire job because it was very hot in the attic and there was no lighting since I had turned the power off. I had placed a large board over the joists so I had a place to kneel while working there. Obviously you have to be very careful where you are standing, etc. so as not to fall through the ceiling. There was lots of insulation which is not good for inhaling or for the skin. I wore a mask some of the time, but got very hot with that on so at times did not wear it.

Notice below the red circled areas are the nuts that need to be tightened to firmly attach the electrical box to the brace up in the attic. The green circled areas indicate the "10-24 Threads for Ceiling Fans and Chandeliers." If I was hanging just a simple light fixture like what I removed, I would use the tabs on the opposite corners of this box (not circled here).

NOTE: BE SURE TO TURN OFF ELECTRICITY AT BREAKER BOX BEFORE THIS TASK: I punched the tabbed nickel-shaped disc from the metal outlet box so the wires could be threaded through to the room via the top of the box. I found using a screwdriver as a chisel and a hammer to pop that tab out worked best.

The Mounting Bracket
Here is the Mounting Bracket that came with the fan to support the weight of the fan when installing. It gets attached to the ceiling outlet box, which should be 4" x 2-1/4" deep metal octagon box (required per the fan instructions). Do not use plastic electrical boxes, per instructions. According to the Westinghouse Saf-T-Bar, use the "10-24 Threads for Ceiling Fans and Chandeliers." Those are found on the opposite corners of the "8-32 Threads for Cover Plates and Lightweight Lighting Fixtures."

Shown below is the mounting bracket attached to the metal electrical box on the ceiling. There is a ground wire on the mounting bracket. There is a ground (copper) wire that comes from the attic and a third ground wire that comes from the fan. I have grouped these three together and fastened with a wire nut. Then white wire attaches to white wire. Black wire attaches to black wire and fastened with a wire nut.

The Ceiling Fan
Here is the ceiling fan, with fan blades removed, that I am installing. It was made for JCPenney and offered through their catalog (No. 852-0231) as per the manufacturer instructions packed with it.

The Wiring and The Remote Receiver

Update 11/29/09: I moved this fan to another room and had to rewire. I am noting the connections that I made here:

From junction box:
white to white
black to black
red also to black
copper grounding wire to green grounding attached to mounting bracket

Then from the remote to the wiring also from the fan:
blue to blue
white to white
black to black
Secure all tightly with wire nuts and test by tugging firmly to ensure they won't come loose.

* Note if you have any concerns, its best to consult a professional electrician.
I am definitely not an electrician!

Once the remote was attached, there were quite a few wires and it proved challenging to slide the remote up into the mounting bracket. There was a lot of trial and error a) getting it all to fit behind the cosmetic canopy piece and b) getting it to work with the remote.

The Finished Product
And here it is! Looking forward to enjoying it for years to come!

Container Gardening: Glazed Ceramic Pots

2009-03-13T14:46:00.001-07:00

In order to elevate and showcase the glazed pots I purchased for my front entryway, I purchased some simple brick pavers and stacked them. This also allowed me to stagger heights and loop the irrigation through the bottom hole of the pot easily.It prevents them from sinking into the landscaping and rock ground covering. I think it helps show off these beautiful pots, making a groomed presentation.

These beautiful glazed ceramic pots were purchased at JoAnn's Etc. Its from their Home collection. I was lucky enough to get them at 50% off during one of their weekend sales. The pot on the right was larger and was elevated on two levels of pavers. The pot on the left was smaller and on just one leve of pavers. There is yet a third smaller matching pot which I have not yet planted.

I had some Elephant's Food /Elephant Bush (Scientific Name: Portulacaria afra Jacq.) growing successfullly nearby, so I transplanted it into these beautiful pots. Since these plants are originally from South Africa, they can handle the brutal heat of Phoenix. Its an excellent choice for this area; hardy down to 30 degrees F, so when necessary, I have taken precautions by covering them whenever the temperatures get close to that.

I also found some larger retaining wall concrete shapes at Lowe's. I stacked these two high to elevate this green "egg-shaped" glazed pot from Costco. I planted more Elephant Food as well as a Gazania (flower) and some of my sunflower plants I have grown from seed. As always, I put rocks in the bottom of the pot for drainage. Another advantage of putting the plant in a glazed pot, rather than against the foundation, is it keeps the water away from the foundation. (Be sure to read about efflorescence on this post.)

Kernal Panic Error and S.M.A.R.T. Failure, Mac Powerbook 15" G4

2009-01-11T18:47:00.000-08:00

This is what is referred to as a "kernel panic error" and unfortunately appeared on my Apple Powerbook 15" G4 recently. I was pretty sure that seeing Chinese characters take over my screen was not in any way, shape, or form a good thing. What it ultimately meant for me was that my hard drive died that day and I lost ALL my data. The good news is it was only my hard drive and not the motherboard. I ended up replacing this 50 GB internal hard drive with a 250 GB Western Digital Internal Hard Drive for about $100. The bad news is I had not backed up a lot of my information on this computer so that data is gone for good unless I want to shell out big bucks to Data Doctors, or another data recovery company.

The 50 GB hard drive went with very little warning. After receiving the kernel panic error, I restarted and tried to run disk permissions. It was then I saw a dreaded red-colored message "S.M.A.R.T. Failure" OMG! It essentially meant "death of my hard drive with no time to back up." I attempted to connect my external hard drive, however it would not show up on the desktop. Game over! Take it from me, back-up before this dreaded day happens to you.

Here are a few shots I snapped while this laptop was open after the new hard drive was replaced:

FYI - this is NOT where the screw goes. My friend who had worked on the computer accidentally installed the screws in the holes where the pins for the DVI connector go (for connecting a monitor). I managed to get one of the screws out. As for the other -- I am "screwed." The "genuis" staff at the local Apple store informs me that this involves taking the entire computer apart. Do yourself a favor and do not make the same error shown here. The photos were taken as part of the first attempt to remove these screws, with no luck, and unfortunately a few other things getting jostled around. (One screw got stripped. The DVD drive got messed up and needed to be tweaked at the Apple store, a small part got snapped off internally, etc.)

On the brighter side, I am told that if I do indeed want to connect a monitor I can plug in the pin area and not be concerned with the screw-on pins. As long as there is a connection there, I will be able to connect a monitor to it.

Here's the 250 GB internal 2.5" PATA replacement drive I purchased at Best Buy for $99.99.

Western Digital - Scorpio Blue 250GB Internal EIDE Hard Drive for Laptops
Model: WD2500BEVERTL | SKU: 9024218

Kohler Single-Lever Tub Faucet Repair

2008-11-29T12:50:00.000-08:00

After 13 years in my house my tub faucet finally started leaking. Not bad, actually. The tub is in a separate section from the shower and is not used daily so perhaps that explains its leak-free service for more than a decade.

Here's a picture of what the faucet looked like before I replaced it, pictured next to its replacement part, which I found at Lowe's. ["Universal Tub Filler Spout - Chrome" by BrassCraft® Mixet® brand (SWD0447 D, Genuine Mixet Repair Part - Part #50 PK).] Cost was $11.75 + tax.

I thought perhaps this was the only source of the leak. However I still had a leak after replacing this part:

I realized I needed to replace the cartridge. Pictured on the right is the original cartridge next to its replacement part:

After searching at both Lowe's and Home Depot, I finally located the Kohler replacement cartridge at my local Ace Hardware: The Lasco Coralais Single-Lever model number is: S-331-3. The cost was $25 plus tax.

The package for the replacement cartridge offered additional help at the following website: www.lasco.net. Here are the step-by-step directions that I located for replacing the faulty cartridge:

Faucet Stem Removal

Step 1: Turn off water to house or under the sink you are working on.

Step 2: Using a screwdriver pry up and remove the button from the top of the handle.

Step 3: Remove the screw from the top of the handle.

Step 4: Pull the handle off. (Use 13-2701 Handle puller if necessary)

Shower and wide spread faucets require the removal of the flange at this point of the repair

Step 5: A Using a pair of pliers (use masking tape to protect the finish) unscrew the flange from the faucet stem body this should expose the stem assembly.

Step 6: Using an adjustable wrench or deep socket unscrew the stem bonnet from the faucet body, Or remove the cap nut from the top of the faucet body.

Step 7: Remove the stem or cartridge from the faucet body.

Cartridge Stem Repair

Step 8: Using a pair of pliers pull up to remove the cartridge assembly. (Plastic cartridges should be replaced rather than repaired)

Step 9: Pull cartridge apart by pushing down on the top of the stem.

Step 10: Using a screwdriver pull the o-rings off the stem and bonnet assemblies.

Step 11: Replace all o-rings.

Step 12: Using a pair of pliers remove the seal and spring from the faucet body.

Step 13: replace the spring then the seal. (Apply a small amount of silicon grease)

Step 14: Reinstall the cartridge.

Step 15: Tighten the cap nut over the cartridge.

Reinstall the stem or cartridge into the faucet body. Repeat process for the other stem.

Step 16: Turn on water and check for leaks.

Step 17: Replace handles and screw into stem.

Step 18: Push handle button onto handle.

The view of the area where I removed the faulty cartridge:
Here's the new cartridge ready to be installed:
Installing the cartridge is easy... just make sure the main water valve is turned off.
Be sure to use plumbing tape to make a tight seal before screwing on the next part:

Approximate total repair cost: $37 + tax

Texas Sage: Extreme Pruning

2008-11-27T08:49:00.000-08:00

This Texas Sage shrub has been trimmed regularly into a snowball shape. It was first planted in 1996. It kept getting larger and there was a lot of dead wood in the interior. I decided to trim it way back to see if I could start over. Here is a photo diary of its progress.

May 2006
(approximately 4' high and 4' wide)

May 2006

On September 13, 2008 this Texas Sage shrub was cut way back.

October 22, 2008

November 19, 2008

January 25, 2009

March 1, 2009

October 22, 2009

This Texas Sage plant gets nearly total sun throughout the day. It is on an irrigation drip system and watered regularly. It gets slight shade from the Palo Brea tree nearby. It is common here in the metro Phoenix area (Sonoran Desert).

DTV Transition

2008-09-30T12:37:00.000-07:00

I plan to continue not handing money over to the cable company and instead I will make use of the new converter boxes available prior to the DTV transition on February 17, 2009.

Here is a bit of background info from the www.DTV2009.gov website:

What is the digital television transition?
At midnight on February 17, 2009, all full-power television stations in the United States will stop broadcasting in analog and switch to 100% digital broadcasting. Digital broadcasting promises to provide a clearer picture and more programming options and will free up airwaves for use by emergency responders.

What is the TV Converter Box Coupon Program?
Congress created the TV Converter Box Coupon Program for households wishing to keep using their analog TV sets after February 17, 2009. The Program allows U.S. households to obtain up to two coupons, each worth $40, that can be applied toward the cost of eligible converter boxes.

A TV connected to cable, satellite or other pay TV service does not require a TV converter box from this program.
Consumers have a variety of options. Options to explore include:

1. Keep your existing analog TV and purchase a TV converter box. A converter box plugs into your TV and will keep it working after Feb. 17, 2009, or
2. Connect to cable, satellite or other pay service, or
3. Purchase a television with a digital tuner.

Step 1: Request your coupon(s) from the government via https://www.dtv2009.gov/ These are worth $40 each and have a 90-day expiration date. I recommend that you not wait for the stampede of procrastinators in February 2009.
Step 2: Purchase a converter box for each television in your home. There are many brands to choose from. I chose the Insignia NS-DXA1, which cost me $19.99 each, after using the $40 coupon.For more information, here's a review on the Insignia by Consumer Reports. I was able to view quite a few more channels than before installing the converter box.

Step 3: Purchase and install an amplified antenna for best reception.

What I did not realize is that I would also need an amplified antenna. The salesperson at Best Buy said I could do without an amplified antenna before February 17, 2009, but after the transition I would most certainly require one to get a picture. I have had good luck on my smaller Sharp 13" television without the help of an amplified antenna, just using rabbit ears. However my larger 27" GE television in another room has been more problematic. It was obvious to me that it required an amplified antenna.

Finding the correct one has been a matter of trial and error. I first purchased a digital flat amplified antenna made by RCA (model #1405B) for $49.99 and got an annoying buzzing sound from the TV that just was not going to work. I returned it. (Note: The Insignia does recommend turning the TV volume to medium and adjusting up or down using the remote for the converter box, rather than the TV remote.)

I purchased this slightly less expensive Philips Indoor UHF/VHF Powered Antenna at Target for $38.49. It seemed to work slightly better than the RCA digital flat model. However it was sensitive to placement and the picture was not perfect, but certainly better than before I hooked up a converter box. HOWEVER, I went to move the antenna and it snapped right off from the "Jetson-looking" triangular base. My initial reaction was that I had not been careful enough with it. When I inspected how it was attached, however, I discovered it was a cheap ol' "made in China" design. I promptly returned it for a full refund.

Currently I am getting a picture and sound that was as good as both amplified antennas with old-fashioned rabbit ears attached to the converter box. For now that will do just fine.

I am beginning to believe the buzzing sound when the volume is higher has more to do with this older TV, therefore I may have to spring for a new LCD or Plasma before mid-February. Sigh.

Bulk Trash Freebies

2008-09-17T21:47:00.000-07:00

I love, love, love quarterly bulk trash in the city of Phoenix. Apparently my fellow-Phoenix residents are completely ignorant of the concept of recycling, donating to their favorite charity, etc. Naaaa, its much easier to just chuck it in the landfill. Their ignorance is my bliss... I am talkin' about garbage pickin' bliss! I located four of these concrete pavers that are faux-bricks. Each is 24" square and extremely heavy. Initially I found two. I went back a day later and VOILA there were two more at the same garbage pile.

First step was raking away all the rock ground cover.

I realized that working with such larger pavers involved adding soil to keep the pavers level to one another. I purchased this soil because it was the cheapest option at Lowe's.

Next I distributed the soil and positioned the 24" pavers.

And around the corner... a Quasar 27" color TV with remote (even with batteries!) sitting on the driveway, ready for the landfill. I loaded it in my car and got it home and plugged it in. To my complete delight it worked just fine. The landfill, really????? That "solution" lacks creativity. I am happy to say that I gifted it to a deserving person who will fully enjoy it.

Sunflowers

2008-06-13T22:16:00.000-07:00

I planted these sunflowers from seeds in March 2008. To my amazement they sprouted and bloomed even here in the Sonoran desert! I guess what they need most is sun and water. There is more than enough sun. I planted seeds in spots where I already had irrigation drips already available. These sunflowers bloomed by early to mid-June. The intense desert heat in June and July caused them to fold over to the ground.

The seed packet was labeled "Mammoth" variety and "annual." Also on the front of the packet were the words "Homegrown birdseed." The birds seem to find enough to snack on in my yard so I suspect they enjoyed these too. If you look close on the first photo you will see the ants were enjoying them as well.

Update March 2009:
Started a new batch... here are what they look when they are just starting...

Tree Trimming - Palo Brea

2008-06-09T07:24:00.001-07:00

I have a lovely Palo Brea tree... well actually THREE! Here in Phoenix, AZ -- the Sonoran Desert -- we have a monsoon season. It lasts from July through about mid-September. With it comes potentially wild winds, lots of lightening and, if we are lucky in this dry desert, rain.

There is a "good" way to trim a tree and a not-so-good way for the health of the tree. The object of the game is to not let the bark rip. The way I have been going about it is to cut further down the branch than the desired cut in order to alleviate the weight of the branch. That cut results in the bark tearing and ripping away. The second cut is at the desired location, exactly where I want it, flush with the tree, so it heals up properly.

Here are some photos of the first cut. As you can see the bark ripped:

And here is the second cut... much cleaner!

Epoxy Paint Peeling

2008-06-08T10:49:00.001-07:00

I had prepared the surface according to the directions, but perhaps not thoroughly enough. Please see my earlier post from December 2007 to see how I did prepare these patio concrete surfaces.

Or maybe it is the or maybe it was the persistent efflorescence rearing its ugly head right through the epoxy paint. The photos you see here are just 6 months after painting the surface.

My next game plan is to look into hiring someone to expand the width of the patio and then add brick to the surface. He plans to power wash the paint, especially around the perimeter of the patio where the brick will be mortared to the concrete to ensure adhesion. The center bricks will be contained by the outer bricks. They will be set with sand, etc. I think that will be a classic good look.

Outdoor Potted Plants - Sonoran Desert

2008-05-18T11:22:00.000-07:00

There are two clay Mexican pots that I have had for several years in my backyard here in Phoenix, AZ. One of these pots has had regular watering via an irrigation system. Because of that the clay has deteriorated. I have had better long-term results with more expensive glazed pots. This 22" Vietnamese glazed pot was $44 at Costco, which is where I have found the best deals. These are heavy pots and were not easy to move or transport from the store without help.

The plant pictured here is called Hesper Aloe. I worked on a drop cloth to make clean-up easier. First I removed the existing plant out of the old pot. Then I moved the clay pot out of the way. What remained was an impression in the soil and the rock ground cover (popular in this area). That reminded me to put some bricks or something to elevate the new pot up and away from the ground. Next I threaded the irrigation tubing through the hole in the bottom of the pot. Finally I stepped back to be sure the placement is where I want it and that the pot looked level before filling it up with dirt. I did need additional soil. The garden expert at Lowe's advised using this Kellogg Palm and Cactus mixture. According to the Kellogg Garden website, this soil is scientifically developed to provide all cacti and succulents a proper planning medium. Also it is suitable for indoor and outdoor cacti and other succulents. It is a soil replacement formulated from forest products, which helps retain the proper moisture and nutrient levels. Pumice is added for aerification and sand for drainage. For two 22" potted plants, I ended up needing 2-1/2 one sq. cu. bags, which sold for close to $5 per bag at my local Lowe's. To help fill these pots and create some drainage, I layered in broken pieces of the old clay pot, stones, as well as the soil from the previous potted plant. Otherwise I would have needed to buy quite a few bags.

And the completed new pot with freshly planted hesper aloe:

March 2009 Update:
I found these "brown ceramic footed pots" at my local JoAnn's. They are part of their Home Inspirations Ceramic Pottery Collection. This set came in the following sizes:

A) 21.3 inch diameter x 20.5 inch originally priced at $99.99;
B) 16.9 inch diameter x 16.1 inch originally priced at $69.99;
C) 12.6 inch diameter x 12.6 inch originally priced at $49.99.

I happened to get these pots during one of JoAnn's half price weekend sale so they were a great value. I wanted to raise them up off the ground a bit to be more visible, so I located these pavers at Lowe's. As you can see the irrigation system can be easily threaded between the pavers through the bottom of the pot.

Bathroom Linoleum Tile Completed

2008-05-17T22:35:00.000-07:00

This bathroom floor was completed using Lowe's Cryntel 12" x 12" Italia Stone Bianco Vinyl Tile. Model #11492; Item #81117. It was under $100 to complete. The trick is to start from the center of the room. For some reason I did not remember to do this and instead started from the edge of the tub. The result was that each 12" square tile was just a teensy bit off. A tile expert gave me the tip to caulk wherever there was a slight gap between tiles. This solved the problem. All gaps are unnoticable. Also I no longer have concerns about water getting up under the linoleum tiles. Caulk forgives a lot of errors. Next time I will remember that nothing is plumb and to ALWAYS start from the center of the room.

Cutting these linoleum tiles with a matte knife was the hardest part. I ended up making little paper templates for all the custom cuts. I simply used scrap paper and an Xacto knife. Next I placed the paper patterns on the linoleum tiles and cut with the matte knife.

While this took me a long time to complete because I did it in phases, I am glad I did it. My bathroom looks much better. Before replacing this the old roll linoleum was yellowing and had nicks in it. This is a more contemporary look and hides the dirt much better.

Preparing the Concrete Surface: Part 2

2008-05-16T21:58:00.000-07:00

After thoroughly cleaning the concrete surface, getting rid of all the residual glue with scraping and washing, I am now ready to paint on Henry brand 336 Bond Enhancer - Self Stick Tile Primer.

I wrote about this product in my kitchen floor post from November 2007:

"After that was cleaned I prepared the floor by painting on a primer designed to help with the adhesion of the self-stick tiles. It was Henry brand 336 Bond Enhancer - Self Stick Tile Primer.It is described as "A specialized Liquid Latex Primer for preparing surfaces for self-stick tile and flooring adhesives." I found it at the nearby Lowe's. It was watery milky stuff. Not too bad to apply, though. The package recommended a roller. Since it was a small room, I just painted it on with a brush. (Make sure you have your windows open for proper ventilation.)

Preparing the Concrete Surface

2008-05-15T22:35:00.001-07:00

Today's word is "scrape." Or maybe it should be two words: "elbow grease." Woah its lots of work! Yes, I am developing new muscles (and new blisters) getting every last bit of residual glue from the roll linoleum that I have removed. I am finding that using a water-saturated rag on the area that I am trying to remove the stubborn adhesive helps quite a bit. I let it sit for a good five minutes or so to soften that glue before using my 5-in-1 scraping tool. Since there is no rush to get this floor done, I can work on it in phases. I hope to touch-up all the woodwork this weekend and finish the last of the scraping. If all goes really well I plan to lay the linoleum tiles as well!

Linoleum Removal

2008-04-30T07:50:00.000-07:00

So its been a while since I have written in my blog. I had to take a break from home projects for a while. Life got busy. Tax preparation. Work. Stuff. But here I am back at another improvement for my little casa. This is the master bathroom. The builder used "el cheapo" roll linoleum that, after 12 years, is yellowing. Frankly my budget is not much higher, but I have located a nice little linoleum tile from Lowe's that emulates stone. The tile itself only cost about $85. The labor is a lot of "elbow grease" by yours truly. First the old stuff has to be removed. That is the stage of the project I am in now.

One thing I did not anticipate was what I found near the toilet -- what looks like some sort of black mold. Had I been in danger just living in the house unaware this lurked under the linoleum? Was I in danger just breathing standing here looking at this stuff? I called my Dad. He assured me that this is a common problem probably due to condensation and advised the area be cleaned with vinegar. I told him I had planned to use bleach. He said bleach would be fine. So in minutes it disappeared with a squirt, squirt of the Clorox bottle. The toilet does share the room with the shower so I can understand the condensation issue.

Persistent Efflorescence

2008-01-17T22:04:00.000-08:00

Despite my efforts to improve my patio problem, the "efflorescence" persists right through the epoxy paint! Its now creeping beyond the concrete area I patched, finding a new border to etch the surface. The paint is flaking off already after just 2 months!

Here is what Wikipedia says about Efflorescence:

"Efflorescence, in chemistry, is the loss of water (or a solvent) of crystallization from a hydrated or solvated salt to the atmosphere on exposure to air.

Primary Efflorescence
Primary efflorescence is named such, as it typically occurs during the initial cure of a cementitious product. It routinely occurs in masonry construction, particularly brick, as well as some firestop mortars, when water moving through a wall or other structure, or water being driven out as a result of the heat of hydration as cement stone is being formed, brings salts to the surface that are not commonly bound as part of the cement stone. As the water evaporates, it leaves the salt behind, which forms a white, fluffy deposit, that can normally be brushed off. The resulting white deposits are referred to as "efflorescence" in this instance. In this context efflorescence is sometimes referred to as "saltpetering." Since primary efflorescence brings out salts that are not ordinarily part of the cement stone, it is not a structural, but, rather, an aesthetic concern.

Secondary Efflorescence
Secondary efflorescence is named such as it does not occur as a result of the forming of the cement stone or its accompanying hydration products. Rather, it is usually due to the external influence of concrete poisons, such as chlorides. A very common example of where secondary efflorescence occurs is steel-reinforced concrete bridges as well as parking garages. Saline solutions are formed due to the presence of road salt in the winter. This saline solution is absorbed into the concrete, where it can begin to dissolve cement stone, which is of primary structural importance. Virtual stalactites can be formed in some cases as a result of dissolved cement stone, hanging off cracks in concrete structures. Where this process has taken hold, the structural integrity of a concrete element is at risk. This is a common traffic infrastructure and building maintenance concern. Secondary efflorescence is akin to osteoporosis of the concrete."

These pictures are of my freshly painted Epoxy patio floors. Obviously no sense in my proceeding with the "faux tile" painting project (see earlier posts)... this first coat of Epoxy paint is not adhering, as you can see. The stubborn efflorescence has found a new place to rise to the surface, just beyond the edge of the concrete patch work -- repairing the previous efflorescence damage -- patched just two months ago.

Wikipedia closes its explanation with protection tips:

Protecting Against Efflorescence
"It is possible to protect porous building materials such as brick, tiles, concrete and paving against efflorescence by treating the material with an impregnating, hydro-phobic sealer. This is a sealer which repels water and will penetrate deeply enough into the material to keep water and dissolved salts well away from the surface. However, in climates where freezing is a concern, such a sealer may lead to damage from freeze/thaw cycles.

Efflorescence can often be removed using phosphoric acid. After application the acid dilution is neutralized with mild diluted detergent, and then well rinsed with water. However, if the source of the water penetration is not addressed efflorescence may reappear.

Common rebar protective measures include the use of epoxy coating as well as the use of a slight electrical charge, both of which prevent rusting. One may also use stainless steel rebar.

Certain cement types are more resistant to chlorides than others. The choice of cement, therefore, can have a large effect upon the concrete's reaction to chlorides."

Since this problem is happening in Phoenix, Arizona -- the "arid zone"... the Sonoran desert -- on a concrete slab that is over 12 years old, I am perplexed as to why this is such a problem and also how to resolve it.

P.S. Epoxy Paint and Tiling do NOT mix

2007-12-17T13:51:00.000-08:00

One REALLY important detail left off the segment on TV3 (KTVK Phoenix) was that once concrete is painted with epoxy paint you CANNOT tile over it, unless you remove all that paint. Yuck! It would have been better to have known that before I painted my concrete patios with epoxy paint. Oh well. This paint job will not last forever and at some point I (or the next homeowner) will need to come up with another solution. I guess I will not concern myself with it today, though.

Another option I plan to research is whether you can have a vendor add concrete stamping over this epoxy finish. I know that I can add those interlocking tiles. That is always an option for down the road.

Update: the epoxy paint on the patio is now starting to slightly bubble along the edge just beyond where the concrete patching work was done. The problem is LYME trying to reach to the top of the surface -- it has merely found a new place to make the deposits since I have patched the damaged area. I have decided not to do all the faux painting because its obvious it will bubble up. This lyme problem will destroy all my hard work.

05: Patio project: grout tape

2007-12-15T08:49:00.000-08:00

Here is a product I found at JoAnn's Etc. It is actual 1/4" grout tape made by a company called Plaid. This is what I had planned to use on the patio project to mask out the grout lines. I had considered 3M's blue painter's tape, however the smallest width I was able to locate was 3/4" wide, which would have made for a chunky mortar line.

I had purchased 4 rolls for my approximately 200 square feet design.

04: Patio Project: prepare the surface

2007-12-06T13:54:00.001-08:00

The first step is to prepare the surface to be painted. I first removed all patio furniture and hosed it off thoroughly. The TV3 segment recommends Behr Concrete Etcher and Rust Remover to prepare the surface.

I happened to have a leftover "Bond-Lok" (Concrete Cleaner + Degreaser) from a Quikrete 2-part Epoxy kit I had purchased for painting my garage floor. The instructions advise applying it by pouring it with a non-metal watering can. After "watering" the patio with the cleaner, I used a standard push broom to spread it around. It turned white as soon as it hit the surface of the concrete -- similar to peroxide on a wound. I then hosed it off, avoiding the remaining garden adjacent to the patio surface so plants were not damaged.

The next step was repairing the pitted, crumbling areas of the concrete. (Please see the first post on this patio project for photos of the problem.) I used a concrete patch that is sold in a small tub. I ended up going through one tub I had on hand plus I needed TWO more! Wow!

Here is where I ran into a bit of a challenge. The consistency of the three tubs of Pre-Mixed Concrete Patch varied. The first was OK. The second was superb -- like the consistency of frosting. It just smooooothed on. The third was problematic. It was lumpy, thick and just did not spread well at all. I watered it down, mixed and mixed and mixed and added more water, and mixed some more. I did my best to patch with this. In hindsight I think I should have returned it to the store and gotten a fresh batch. But I figured I could sand it down to a smooth finish that would be suitable for painting. My friend and I had had success in smoothing the larger patio with my hand-held Black-and-Decker sander. The smaller bedroom patio had more damage to it than the larger main patio.

03: Patio Project: "faux" tile painting solution

2007-12-06T08:00:00.000-08:00

DIY GAL NOTE: This post (4 of a series of 5) features a solution to a problem I have been addressing regarding two concrete patio slabs. Please refer to the earlier posts on this topic for a more thorough explanation of the problem, etc. Thanks for reading!

So the purpose of this project is to:
A) repair some concrete surface that was pitted and crumbling a bit
and
B) make it attractive... all while adhering to a budget.

Inspiration for this project came from a segment on 3TV (KTVK, Phoenix, AZ) with Suzanne Bissett and Home Depot. [Please note: There was a typo on the contact info on their web site: Home Depot, Val Vista and Broadway Roads, Interior Designer Teresa Follmer. For more information, call (480)-396-0227.]

Essentially it was a "how-to" for painting concrete to create a "faux" tile look. I watched the online segment several times and decided I would proceed this way. After all, if it does not work out, I can always use the interlocking tiles solution over it, right? This is an economical solution. I will walk you through my steps so you can see if it will work for you too!

Update: Be sure and view this post.

02: Patio Project: possible solutions

2007-12-05T12:56:00.000-08:00

DIY GAL NOTE: This post explores solutions to the previous post, which addresses a problem with two concrete patio slabs. Please refer to that post for a more thorough explanation of the problem. Thanks for reading!

I wanted whatever final solution I decided upon to make the patios more attractive, not just repair the damage. Budget was a concern. I researched several solutions. A few years ago I obtained an estimate from Armor Deck to coat it. Apparently my approximate 200 sq. ft. did not meet their minimum requirements. The cost to do this and my front porch and walkway would be over $1500.

Another solution a friend told me about was interlocking tiles. He found one option of modular wood decking at HomeDepot .com called Honey Deck [200 Square Foot Deck Package (10 Ft. x 20 Ft.) 15 cases of A pieces & 3 cases of B pieces.] for $775. It is secured onto the patio with Liquid Nails. Since it is sold in this package there would be no room for error with my project. I sure would not want to double that price! We discovered that this sort of project is not carried at my local Home Depot (nor did the staff have a clue as to what I was talking about.)

Costco.com also offers a similar product. Their VIFAH Premium Snapping Deck Tiles sell for $99 per box. Each box covers 20 square feet. The Pattern is made up of horizontal slats per tile.

The description on Costco.com web site reads:

Quickly build any unique outdoor living space by simply snapping the deck tiles together without using nails, glue, or a hammer. Snapping deck tiles (sometimes referred to as interlocking deck tile) is a do-it-yourself product designed for the average homeowner. It quickly makes a solid hardwood floor on the patio, balcony, next to a pool or spa, or kitchen and bathroom areas in a couple of hours. No hassles of building a deck the conventional way. Most importantly, it is economically reusable - just simply snap and unsnap the deck tiles on one floor and re-snap them on another floor! You can build your floor within a matter of hours - not days - and enjoy it immediately. No glue, no screws, or hammers are needed!

The snapping deck tiles are made of the beautiful non-endangered Shorea, a hardwood growing naturally and plentifully in Vietnamese protected forests. In Vietnam, Shorea has been the wood of choice for centuries in shipbuilding, furniture, houses, and many other uses. Its hardness and the natural oils present in the wood make Shorea products extremely resistant to fungi, termites, rot and decay. In addition, the wood is also carefully kiln-dried prior to production."

Another solution that I have considered is some sort of tile... porcelain, saltillo, ceramic... something that is non-skid, sturdy. Since I live in the Sonoran desert in Phoenix, Arizona, there is no concern for ice or snow or severe cold or even a lot of rain. But the intense heat is a consideration.

All of these solutions are valid options... however I found a very interesting solution, which I will write about in my next post.

01: Patio Project: the problem

2007-12-04T11:50:00.000-08:00

The reason I started thinking about doing something with my two back patios is because of their appearance. The builder had poured two slabs for the two patios back in 1995. The main patio is 20'6" x 8' and the bedroom patio is 8' x 4'. I had a sweet, little flower bed between both patios.

Take a look at these photos and you can see my concern. My house painter noticed the problem. Her theory was that perhaps the subcontractor who poured the concrete had watered it down.

A neighbor saw it and believed the problem was because I was irrigating too close to the concrete slabs. Somehow the water was getting up under the slab -- whether from rain or from irrigation -- and chipping away at the top surface. Since it is the structural support for my covered patios, I knew I could not let this go on indefinitely.

The first thing I did is remove my flower bed and the irrigation system between the two patios to cease watering in that area.

In my next post I will explore different options I considered to solve this problem.

Just say "NO" to the ComSwitch 5500

2007-12-03T08:00:00.000-08:00

Part of being a homeowner and a self-employed business person involves decisions and consumer purchases for home office electronics. I thought maybe I would save a little dough by eliminating my dedicated fax line ($24/month + tax). Silly me! I canceled my dedicated fax line, then designed and printed an announcement and new business card promoting my new business concept. These items had my updated contact info, which, of course, included NO DEDICATED FAX LINE. At a cost of approximately $600 for printing and postage, I promptly addressed, stamped and mailed these carefully crafted announcements and business cards to about 135 of my closest relatives, friends and business contacts. I figured, as these were in the mail, I would easily take care of the "minor" details of getting my home office organized to match what I claimed -- that I no longer have a dedicated fax line.

Never did I imagine that I would struggle with getting my home fax line to share my phone line. Can I get a witness???

I went to Staples to buy a ComSwitch 5500 on October 28, 2007. It lasted until December 2, 2007. God rest its soul. Five weeks, you say? Yes, that's right. Five weeks. I think that averaged about $15 per fax received. This black plastic box o' crap lasted five damn weeks. Not only did the ComSwitch 5500 die, but my not-quite-three-year-old AT+T corded phone connected to it "mysteriously" started having an annoying humming sound, making it virtually useless (unless your goal is to repulse callers).

So now I needed to replace my phone and chose a new $85 Panasonic phone (KX-TG1033S with new DECT 6.0 technology). (BTW, I love this new phone set!) While setting up the new phones, my friend and I could not get the ComSwitch 5500 to work. After four hours of troubleshooting with my friend's skilled expertise -- he has 14 years experience in technical support with a telecommunications company -- we threw up our arms in complete frustration. We were able to have ComSwitch answer the call, but not have caller ID, or else set it up for caller ID and have the ComSwitch hang up on callers. Neither was acceptable. The game plan was for me to call customer support the following day. They will help, right??? After all I paid $65 and its only five weeks old. Certainly Command Communications would care about their customers and its reputation as a quality company.

HA! In a nutshell, even though I have one damaged AT+T phone with a loud permanent humming, and I can no longer get the ComSwitch to work with Caller ID without dropping calls, technical support basically says "tough luck." Once they found out I neglected to plug in my phone cord into a phone/fax surge protector, Eric, the Command Communications technical service rep, had the evidence needed to blame me, the negligent customer. After all it was on PAGE ONE of their owner's manual in the "blah, blah, blah" section (although not in their diagrams). Oh to be fair, he offered to let me ship it back to them in Colorado for inspection (at MY expense, of course), but warned me that if they discovered it had been fried by some sort of surge into my phone, my warranty would become invalid. Oh, so I would be out the $65 for the ComSwitch 5500 AND the cost to ship the piece o' crap back to them? Yea, right!

I have been in my house over 12 years and have survived as many summers of sometimes violent, desert monsoon storms. I have NEVER had a phone fry because of some sort of power surge through the phone line. I have never bothered to plug in the phone (or fax) into a phone/fax surge protection device. I have plugged the electrical cords into the electrical surge protector, but it never occurred to me to protect the phone line. My bad, I suppose. If Eric's theory is correct, my AT+T phone and the ComSwitch went kaput because of this supposed surge. If that is true, Eric, than how do you explain the ComSwitch working before I replaced my $65 three-year-old AT+T phone with a new $85 Panasonic phone? (And, yes, the Panasonic is now plugged into the surge protector, thank you very much.)

Eric asked me if I placed the ComSwitch 5500 near other electronic devices. He reminded me that these devices are very sensitive to other electronic equipment (incidentally my AT+T manual noted this too). Really? How is it that manufacturers of office equipment envision people using their products alone, away from other electronic devices? Have they never visited a home office? Let's see... there are phones, fax machines, ink jet and/or laser printers, scanners, modems, routers and maybe even a TV. Do they envision each of these items in their own private room? Interesting concept. Perhaps I could store my ComSwitch 5500 under glass, like a museum display. Fat chance!

Back to Staples, where I bought it -- that is where this piece o' crap went. Yea, they have a 14-day return policy on technology, however Staples took it back with no questions asked. Somehow I don't think I was the only one to return this device. What a relief. Thank you, Staples!

Now I am left figuring out some other solution that does not involve Command Communications.

Lowe's vs. Home Depot

2007-12-03T04:23:00.000-08:00

I am sure this is not going to be the final blog entry on this comparison. I count myself lucky -- at least sometimes -- that I live in an area urban enough to be within two miles of both Lowe's and Home Depot, not to mention Ace Hardware and much, much more. This means I have choices galore.

"LOWE'S: IMPROVING HOME IMPROVEMENT"
Good slogan!

In the past I held the prejudice that Lowe's was more expensive, for some reason. Perhaps the store seemed nicer, the people friendlier, less warehouse noise -- I guess that was just perception regarding prices. However, I am not so sure that is true. But there are many commodities to consider -- money, time, energy. What I am sensing is that there is a big difference in how the two companies are managed. Whatever the upper management is doing must be trickling down. (Apparently I am not the only one who feels this way... Case Study Addict: Home Depot: Hactivism). I am noticing a much more friendly and helpful attitude from Lowe's. While I know no one who works for Lowe's, I have two good friends who have worked, or do work, for Home Depot -- one of which is an assistant manager at a Home Depot in Oregon. What I am learning in listening to his experience, is that the staff is worked long hours and not appreciated for it. The same was true for another Phoenix area friend who worked in the kitchen design area of a Phoenix Home Depot. She said the job was a challenging one. Both friends are hard-working, diligent and pleasant people.

But I digress...

Like any home improvement project there are multiple items to pick up as you get into the project. For these items I have visited both Lowe's and Home Depot. The project that I am currently in a holding pattern on is the "Faux" Tile Patio Painting project. Why? Because I am getting all sorts of conflicting information. Have I ruined my patio by using Quikrete 2-part Epoxy Paint as the first major step? Gawd I hope not. That was hard work! And just a reminder, the reason I painted my patio floor with epoxy paint is because of the special segment on TV3 and Home Depot. Yes, I said Home Depot.

Also I plan to ask a Dunn Edwards representative, which just opened a new paint store within 2 miles of my home, my "complex" and involved questions and hope for a person who cares and has knowledge. Wish me luck. I will report back...

Kitchen Floor Project

2007-11-24T08:00:00.000-08:00

Here is a pic of my new linoleum kitchen floor tiled with easy-to-install linoleum tiles. It was a $100 project, give or take, for my small kitchen.

The toughest job was preparing the floor by removing the old linoleum. The top layer of linoleum peeled off fairly easily. However, the paper backing and the glue remained "stuck" on the concrete surface. That required scraping. I found that soaking the residual paper backing and glue with some water and a rag, allowing it sit about a minute and then scraping assisted in getting rid of all that gunk.

There was also some effort in clearing away the old caulk along the baseboards. After that was cleaned I prepared the floor by painting on a primer designed to help with the adhesion of the self-stick tiles. It was Henry brand 336 Bond Enhancer - Self Stick Tile Primer. It is described as "A specialized Liquid Latex Primer for preparing surfaces for self-stick tile and flooring adhesives." I found it at the nearby Lowe's. It was watery milky stuff. Not too bad to apply, though. The package recommended a roller. Since it was a small room, I just painted it on with a brush. (Make sure you have your windows open for proper ventilation.)

Laying the tile was the fun part. The tile linoleum product is from Home Depot: 12" tiles by Traffic Master (Home Depot's in-house brand). The color is "Beige Slate." Since my kitchen is small (only about 60 sq ft needed for the tile-able area.). I only needed two boxes of 30 tiles, plus a few spare, which are sold individually for 99 cents at my local Home Depot.

I first mapped out the tile pattern on the living room carpet so I was sure not to repeat any patterned tiles. The room is an odd shape with angled cabinets and a nook for the refrigerator and stove so I had to use my best judgment when determining where to work from. The tile manufacturer recommends making a chalk line of the center intersection point of the room. I ended up lining up one of the tiles with the edge of the cabinet that is just to the left of where you enter this small kitchen.

Insulate Your Garage Door

2007-11-17T14:22:00.000-08:00

Here's an easy project that I tackled in October: insulating my garage door.

The obvious advantage is improved insulation of the garage, making it cooler in summer and warmer in winter. I have found it also helps deaden some of the street noise of passing vehicles.

I went to Lowe's for my supplies for this project. I decided NOT to buy the pre-packaged garage door kit(s). Not only was that kit more expensive, but it would have made a less precise finished product. Instead I bought 1.5" thick Insulfoam R-Tech Expanded Polystyrene in 2' x 4' sheets for about $3.50/sheet. I measured each panel and the polystrene was cut with a JIGSAW (not a utility knife) for a crisp, tidy cut. This is key for a no muss, no fuss job. The thickness was a purrrrfect snug fit for my garage door frame. With some of the scraps I was even able to frame around the windows. The center panels between windows were held in place with some scraps of industrial-strength Velcro that I had available, and some "T" (sewing) pins attached at an angle to the base panels (see close-up picture).

From the Insulfoam website:

"Insulfoam provides you with one of today's most recognized exterior wall insulation underlayments, Expanded Polystyrene R-Tech. R-Tech is a film-faced product designed to be a durable, lightweight, rigid foam panel that adds significant long term R-value insulation to your walls. The Film facing front and back minimizes waste caused by accidental board damage and helps to keep the board intact despite minor breaks. R-Tech is easy to handle, cut and install without the difficulties of foil or paper facings and glue. Excellent resistance to moisture for lasting retention of insulating performance."

This project was just $45 for a two-car garage door, and took an afternoon to complete.